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NVZ
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As a French, I can tell you that I am not always sure to do it appropriately but it is not a real problem as there is no sexual charge in such a habit. It is mainly a matter of situation and subtle body language that can tell you the truth.

As a stranger you just have to behave neutrally to feel comfortable: invite others to shake your hands; then people will propose you to check-kiss in return when appropriate. It is highly probable that women will kiss you first. Men will propose it after much more time and more close relationship, when men kiss each other it is a sure sign of a good friendship (or they are in the same family).

Never kiss in professional or formal situations (it is fairly rare). Cheek-kissing is never considered with sexual connotation, except if you insist too much and inappropriately. Also, remember that what we called cheek-kissing is not really kissing the cheeks! It is more like cheek-to-cheek touch with a kind of a discreet sound of a kiss. A real kiss on the cheek is, at least and surely, a romantic gesture! In fact, the more it is like a real kiss on the cheek, the more close is the relation.

Don't hug like North-Americans, this is not well used in France except among Football/Soccer fans during matches or in close-relation situations, while it can be used in some other Northern European countries. It may seem slightly bizarre to Frenchies but nobody will blame you for it, on the contrary, it can be interpreted as a charming habit from a friendly American!

French hugs are not face-to-face but more side-by-side when a man use one arm to pass or tap his hand on the back of his peer. Don't try with women, too much contact with another person is generally considered as sexually charged in Europe.

Of course, all of this is roughly described, there exist many local variants and you will be able to observe a different kind of habits, but remember most of the time the following is sufficient to be considered as polite:

  • man-man: handshake + hi/hello/goodbye
  • woman-woman: hi/hello/goodbye (handshake in a formal situation)
  • man-woman: hi/hello/goodbye (handshake in a formal situation)

PS: I apologize for my bad English while being able to express common things, explaining such subtleties is much more difficult to me.