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Tom Au
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Original answer to original question:

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and it's also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

Here is a new response based on the edited question:

The ask is at $4700. A bid of about $3800 is not unreasonable (about 80% of the ask). If you're lucky, you'll be able to split the difference around $4200. If it's $4250, you may have decide whether or not to "stretch" for $50.

If the seller insists on more than $4200, be up front. Say, "I only have $4200. If you want more, you'll need a new customer." Faced with this choice, he may come down. He may not.

Another possibility worth considering (for some people) is to offer $4000 down, and the balance of $700 at $100 a month over, say, seven months. (Save the extra $200 to give yourself a cushion.) He gets his price. You get "soft" terms (extra time to pay).

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and it's also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

Original answer to original question:

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and it's also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

Here is a new response based on the edited question:

The ask is at $4700. A bid of about $3800 is not unreasonable (about 80% of the ask). If you're lucky, you'll be able to split the difference around $4200. If it's $4250, you may have decide whether or not to "stretch" for $50.

If the seller insists on more than $4200, be up front. Say, "I only have $4200. If you want more, you'll need a new customer." Faced with this choice, he may come down. He may not.

Another possibility worth considering (for some people) is to offer $4000 down, and the balance of $700 at $100 a month over, say, seven months. (Save the extra $200 to give yourself a cushion.) He gets his price. You get "soft" terms (extra time to pay).

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NVZ
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Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and itsit's also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and its also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and it's also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

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Tom Au
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Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and its also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a a "lowball" bid, by offering half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50, you might split the difference at 75.

This is "standard" advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and its also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50.

Assuming that he has made a high "ask," you can counter with a a "lowball" bid, by offering about half of what he asked. If he asks 100 and you bid 50-60, you might split the difference at 75-80.

This is "standard" bargaining advice. But before you take it, check the "blue book" value of a car of similar make, age, and condition online. It's possible that even 50 is too high a bid, and its also possible that he's asking 100 for a car worth 90, in which case 75-80 would be a more reasonable bid than 50-60.

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Tom Au
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